After those last few entries, I feel like I’m all caught up. Things are different now. Life feels more stable; more comfortable.
Just over a month ago, I escaped from the tiny apartment in the dingy Ikebukuro suburb where I spent the better part of a year, and I now find myself typing from the much more comfortable neighbourhood of Shirokane-Takanawa in Minato.
I’m earning a more livable wage and doing more (arguably) honest work. I’m kind of kicking myself for not trying out the eikaiwa gig sooner, to be frank. But experience builds character, or so I’ve been told.
The point is, I’m pleased with where I am at the moment.
But what am I writing about? What photos do I have to share?
Just last week, I (along with the majority of the country) enjoyed the more-or-less perfect temperatures of approaching summer and a few days’ holiday. Every year in Japan, during the last days of April and the first week of May, the country celebrates a series of almost-consecutive holidays including Showa Day and Children’s Day. Known as Golden Week, this period is a popular time for holiday travel despite the higher hotel and flight rates, and monstrously dense crowds!
I usually work on holidays, but this time I took a couple days off to visit two neighbourhoods. One, called Sugamo, had always been nearby my previous accommodation, but I’d never been compelled to explore. Why not? Well, it’s known for its popularity among senior citizens, and its signature souvenir is red bloomers for elderly women. I know—I’m not sure what to make of it either, really. But it was kind of quaint and charming, if a bit dull.
The other destination was in the neighbouring prefecture of Kanagawa, in the exceptionally popular seaside town of Kamakura. The three of us, Yukari, her friend Marina and I, found ourselves at Kamakura Station waiting for the Enoden—the same cute streetcar-style train I’d seen during my visit to Fujisawa the previous autumn. After a short ride, we arrived at Hase Station and found ourselves swept up in the bustling road leading to Kotoku-in.
We then came to what is probably the most famous temple in Kanagawa, though I’m sure many people don’t even know its name. Rather, the temple is famous for its immense bronze Buddha statue. The Daibutsu of Kotoku-in was cast over seven centuries ago and stands (well, sits) as the second tallest bronze Buddha in the country at over eleven metres.
I’d seen it numerous times on websites and Instagram, but it really was something else in-person. I’m grateful I finally had the opportunity to see it with my own eyes and take in its enormity and all the minute textural details of the weathered bronze. The temple was filled with greenery and the Buddha looked especially picturesque. A hundred humans scurried around the base of the sitting statue. Its head was bent forward with pursed lips, as if to survey the creatures and their camera-phones with faint displeasure. I’m definitely projecting here, but it was easy to appreciate the Buddha’s immense height amidst the crowds.
We walked a short ways south to reach Yuigahama beach. Though it was already shorts-and-tee weather by Canadian standards, it was not yet swimming season in Japan and the beach was relatively quiet compared to the rest of the city. It didn’t look particularly gorgeous with its dark beige and grey sand under overcast skies, but overhead, streamers of ornate fish-shaped windsocks—called koinobori in Japanese—blew uniformly in the wind, displayed in honour of Childrens’ Day (originally Boy’s Day) and a symbol of spring.
The three of us soon grew weary of walking and sought a place to eat. After some searching, we found a tasty-looking burger shop nearby Kamakura Station called Rooftops. Given the holiday, like most other restaurants we saw on the way, it was pretty crowded. While we were waiting to be seated, the fourth companion finally arrived; Andrew, my former colleague, and a swell English chap. We caught up over some very fine burgers, then again set out in the direction of Tsurugaoka Hachimangu
Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, a visually striking and culturally important shrine, is reached via a wide, lengthy pathway with multiple torii gates, that stretches all the way to Kamakura’s waterfront. The compound features small bridges, a large pond, museums, a stage, and a main hall that stands atop a wide stone stairway. Once we had paid our respects at the main hall, we descended the stairs and were fortunate to find a wedding underway, with bride, groom and Shinto priests in gorgeous traditional garb.
Shortly after, Yukari and Marina led us to an apparently famous spot, though the way there was fairly quiet and empty. We arrived shortly before sundown and too late in the day to see the ‘bamboo temple’ Hokokuji. As such, we headed back to Kamakura station and the four of us made our way back to Tokyo, the sky now dark, windows reflecting the interior of the train car, punctuated here and there by speckles of city lights.